We left Bryce National Park fairly early, about 9:00 am, and headed east and north on the Scenic Byway also known as Utah highway 12. To quote from the Utah Office of Tourism, “Scenic Byway Highway 12, from Panguitch to Torrey, is Utah’s first and only nationally-designated All-American Road. Passing through twisting canyons, red rock towers, pine forests, and pioneer towns, you will experience a thrilling All-American road trip. Punctuating the drive are breathtaking panoramas, national parks and monuments, recreation areas, and state parks.” I couldn’t have said it better. It was certainly one of the most scenic roads I have taken and rates up there with the Icefields Parkway in Canada.
Our first stop was in the Kodachrome Basin State Park near Cannonville. This park was named by the National Geographic Society in the 1940s for the film they exclusively used at the time. The park has several sandstone chimneys and pillars and the rock formations are colorful. We continued along highway 12 which skirts the Grand Staircase – Escalante National Monument which is only accessible with 4-wheel drive SUVs.
At the town of Boulder, which was so remote that until the 1940s their mail was delivered by mule trains, we stopped for lunch at Hell’s Backbone Grill which was a delightful surprise. Our guidebook recommended it but it didn’t elaborate enough on how nice it was. The attractive building was set in a lush garden of water reeds and blossoming flowers. But mainly the food was delicious and the staff friendly. How can a restaurant of this caliber stay afloat in such a remote region?
From Boulder to Torrey highway 12 was built by the CCC from 1933 to 1942 in a region that was the last unmapped region of the lower 48 states according to road signs at scenic viewpoints. It was exciting with part of it along a narrow ridge with steep drop offs on both sides of the highway. From rocky landscape we climbed over a 9,200 foot pass in the Dixie National Forest with tall ponderosa pines and shimmering aspens. Finally we arrived at the pretty town of Torrey and made our way to the Capitol Reef National Park.
Capitol Reef National Park is mostly for off-road vehicles but we did take the 20 mile round trip scenic road. Near the Visitors Center is the area known as the Fruita Area where early Mormon pioneers planted fruit trees along the Fremont River. There is the old Gifford house, a blacksmith shop, barn, schoolhouse and orchards. The peaches were not ripe but the apricots were so we picked a few for breakfast. We saw the Chimney Rock, Capitol Dome, and Indian petroglyphs which were interesting.
We checked into our motel in Torrey and drove to Cafe Diablo for dinner. Twice in one day we came across excellent restaurants in a remote part of Southern Utah. We had an outstanding dinner – Rita started with a wild mushroom and spinach salad while I had free-range rattlesnake cakes. Yes, that’s right, free-range. None of those farm-raised rattlesnakes. It was tasty with a chipotle aioli sauce. For main course Rita had a Mayan tamale which was eggplant, masa, and roasted tomatoes steamed in a banana leaf. I had flank steak in a nice sauce with a potato basket filled with mashed potatoes and other vegetables. The presentation was outstanding and it tasted delicious, too. We had a cabernet sauvignon wine with the meal and for desert a delicious chocolate cake with homemade vanilla bean ice cream.
Enough of these rocks for a while – tomorrow we head for the big city. The one by the salty lake. And we have to stop eating like this.
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