Monday, June 17, 2019

Embassy Trip to Ancient Olympia - February 2005






We signed up for this trip as soon as it was announced.  This was an Embassy sponsored trip lead by Ergini, who teaches Greek.  There were about 40 of us all together and we would leave on Saturday and return late Sunday since we had Monday as a holiday (President’s Day).  Ergini has a reputation as a cut-up and she lived up to it as we had a barrel of laughs most of the time.  In spite of the, mostly, bad weather, we had fun, saw a new part of Greece, ate and drank well, and learned a bit about Greek mythology in the bargain.



We had to rise early Saturday morning as our bus left from the Embassy at 8:00 am which is about 8:30 am on Greek time.  Ergini was born in Greece, married an American, who is on his four-year tour at the Embassy, and can laugh at herself as she makes many jokes about the Greeks.  Greek time is only one of the jokes.  We headed west from Athens along the motorway to Corinth where our first stop was for coffee at a shop alongside the Corinth Canal.  This canal was begun nearly two thousand years ago when Nero was emperor of Rome.  It wasn’t finished until 1893 but it is an amazing engineering feat.  The canal is about four miles long and connects the Saronic Gulf with the Gulf of Corinth.  Since it is only 75 feet wide, many of the larger modern ships cannot pass through but it is still used by many smaller ships today.



We continued along the road that hugs the Gulf of Corinth to Patra, the third largest city in Greece.  The road turns southwest through an area of marshlands and lagoons with some excellent beaches filled with many water birds.  Just before the town of Pyrgos we headed east to our destination, the ruins of Ancient Olympia.  Olympia is not to be confused with Mount Olympos where the Greeks believed Zeus and the other Greek gods lived.  Mount Olympos is in northern Greece between Larissa and Thessaloniki.  Our destination is on the Peloponnese and is where the Olympic athletic games were held from 776 BC to 393 AD, over a thousand years.  Ancient Olympia is also where one of the seven wonders of the ancient world was located – the statue of Zeus in the temple dedicated to him.



Before we checked into our hotel we stopped at a restaurant in the town of Olympia and had a quick lunch.  Rita and I shared a Greek salad and the Greek dish of pastitsio which is sort of like lasagna but with a béchamel sauce.  Then we headed to the nice Amalia Hotel where we stayed.  We were about the only hotel guests as this is not the typical tourist season in this area.  Our bus picked up our local guide, named Panos, who took us up some scenic mountain roads past the town of Lalas to the Foloi forest at the base of Mount Foloi.  Sometimes this forest and mountain are spelled Pholoe.  This is one of the largest oak forests in Greece and is associated with one of the labors of Hercules, that of the capture of the Erymanthian boar.  In this forest, the Centaur, Pholos, lived in a cave and when Hercules visited him they got drunk on good, choice wine, the aroma of which brought many other Centaurs to the cave where a battle took place.  So we were advised to be on the lookout for Centaurs that live in this forest – but we didn’t see any. 



The bus left us and we hiked a trail through the Foloi forest that we estimated to be about four miles long.  It wasn’t especially attractive and the trail was muddy from recent rains and snows.  In fact, half way through out hike we heard thunder and could see the skies darkening.  We hiked the last half mile in steady drizzle which increased as we made it to the taverna in the woods where we were to have dinner.  It was an early dinner by Greek standards but we ate well anyway.  We had a set menu which started again with Greek salad followed by stifado, a Greek meat stew (ours had beef) with onions, tomato sauce, more onions, bay leaves, cinnamon, and more onions.  We were served a rose wine that, while not great, was drinkable and replenished often.  Then we were given shots of tsipouro, a strong drink distilled from the stems, seeds and skins of crushed grapes.  We think this was our downfall which gave us our headaches the next morning although it tasted good at the time.



The bus dropped us back at the hotel where we had an hour to unpack and rest before coming down to a performance of Greek dancers.  Rita fell asleep during this intermission and didn’t want to go down to see the show so we stayed in our room.  I read while Rita went to sleep early.  The next morning we heard that there were only four dancers anyway and we’ve seen Greek dancing before so we don’t feel we missed out on a lot. 



Sunday was a long day.  We woke about 7:00 am and met for our group breakfast at 7:30.  Our bus left at 9:30 and took us to our main goal, the ruins of Ancient Olympia.  The site is located where the Kladeos river meets the Alpheios river, the longest river in the Peloponnese.  The ancient Olympic games were held every four years and they lasted five days during which time all wars ceased.  Of course we’re talking only of Greek city states taking part in the games.  The last game was held in 393 AD because in 394 AD the games were banned by Byzantine Emperor Theodosius and in 426 AD Emperor Theodosius II issued an edict forbidding worship of the ancient gods.  In 522 AD and 551 AD tremendous earthquakes destroyed the buildings and the river flooded the area in silt to a height of about 45 feet which preserved the ruins well.  In 1874 German archeologists uncovered the site which has been preserved until today.  Many of the statues are in a local museum adjacent to the ruins of the sanctuary. 



The morning started out in sunshine but soon into our tour of Ancient Olympia the skies clouded up and we heard thunder in the distance.  We started at the gymnasium and the Palaestra.  These buildings were training areas mainly for wrestlers and boxers.  Next we toured the Temple of Zeus where one of the seven wonders of the ancient world had been situated.  The statue, about 25 feet tall, was of Zeus seated on a throne and was called a chryselephantine statue meaning it was of wood base and covered with ivory (for the skin), gold, silver and precious stones.  Nothing remains of the statue as the Christians shipped it to Constantinople where it supposedly burned in a fire.



By now the rains began so we put up our hoods (others used umbrellas) and continued onwards.  We visited the site of the Temple of Hera, the oldest temple here, and the Philippeion, a monument built by Philip II, father of Alexander the Great, which honored the dynasty of the Macedonian kings.  We walked along the treasury buildings and the place where the statues called Zanes were lined up at the entrance to the stadium.  As it was raining and the field was wet, we did not walk onto the stadium track but admired it from the grassy sides – as ancient spectators did.  Now the lightning was striking very close and we were walking under trees.  Some people were carrying umbrellas which were portable lightning rods.  So we headed to the modern museum which had great displays of treasures uncovered by the Germans in 1874. 



The rain stopped while we toured the museum and we stepped out into some sunshine before re-boarding the bus.  Our bus left again and headed up the mountain road through Lalas and, this time, bypassing the Foloi forest.  We climbed higher and higher and eventually reached the snow line where melting had started but not completed.  The higher we climbed the more snow we encountered and at the village of Lambia (also called Divri) the bus stopped to let us walk up an icy road he could not make.  Some decided to stay on the bus but they missed a good time.



First we walked to a 12th century church with original frescos on the walls.  It was tiny and we couldn’t all squeeze in at the same time but had to take turns.  Then we walked to a shop that was billed to us as a blacksmith.  But the translation suffered since he had nothing to do with shoeing horses as he re-tinned pots and pans, or as he proudly showed us, the baptismal font of the local church.  Again his little shop was too small for all of us to visit so some of us visited his 81-year-old mother who sat us down in her tiny room which was kitchen, bedroom and living room combined.  The fire was blazing in the fireplace and she greeted us with smiles and plenty of energy.  She busied herself getting all the cups and glasses she had together to pour us drinks of her homemade tsipouro, the strong liquor I mentioned earlier.  Hers was better than what we had at the restaurant the night before.  She gathered up all the chairs she had and motioned for us to sit on her bed and chairs by the fire.  It was fun and she invited all of us to return in the spring time when we can sit outside on her patio and drink tsipouro.



As we left her house and started downhill to the bus, thunder clashed again and soon we were walking in sleet and then snow.  We boarded the bus and headed back down the mountains to Olympia but we had to take it slowly as we encountered heavy, blowing snow for quite a long time.  Near Olympia, in the village of Linaria, where Panos was from, we had dinner in the Taverna Kotopoula (means rooster or chicken) which belonged to his friends.  It was our best meal on the trip and began with moussaka, then a salad of shredded carrots and cabbage followed by the main course of baked chicken with potatoes.  All tasted delicious with local white wine and was followed by a dessert of yogurt with what they call spoon sweets. 



We piled back on the bus for the long ride back to Athens where we arrived right at midnight.  I’m glad we didn’t have to go to work the next day.


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