While most Americans were celebrating the 4th of July with outdoor barbeques, hot dogs and fireworks (except those of you in the Texas Hill Country who were watching the flood waters rise – and our land slide downhill), Rita and I were winging it to Milan, Italy on Virgin Express Airlines. We weren’t trying to hide from Taliban extremists, although we did have an invitation to the Ambassador’s residence for a reception, but we found a bargain on the Internet too good to refuse and had never been to Milan before.
The cut-rate airline delivered the goods and us to Milan on time at Linate Airport where we took a taxi to the Marriott hotel. We settled in quickly and were walking the streets soon after arriving in country. The Marriott is about two miles from the city center but we walked to the historic center and impressive Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. The Galleria, started in 1865, is an elegant arcade made of iron and glass. At one end is the Piazza della Scala with the Scala Theater (closed for renovations) and the other is the Piazza del Duomo or cathedral square. The Duomo is the highlight of Milan, a beautiful cathedral started in 1386. Unfortunately, as happens all too often with us, the front was partially covered in scaffolding.
The Duomo is huge, reported as the third largest cathedral in the world, but we have heard that story elsewhere, too. We toured the interior and saw the highlights such as the 15th century stained glass windows, holy nail of the cross, statue of the flayed St. Bartholomew (which gave Mark Twain nightmares), Trivulzio candelabrum, etc. Next we took the elevator up to the roof terraces where one has a beautiful view of Milan. There are about 3,500 statues on the roof topped off by the gilded statue of the Madonna called La Madonnina, the symbol of Milan.
Next we walked down the shopping street, Corso (in Italy streets are either Corsos or Vias) Vittorio Emanuele II, to the fashion district. The fashion district is a pedestrian only section of small narrow streets where we saw the centers of haute fashion, Giorgio Armani, Gianni Versace, Gucci, Fendi, Prada and Dolce & Gabbana to drop a few names. From there is was a short walk through the Archi di Porta Nuova, one of two old remaining city gates, to the Giardini Pubblici or public gardens (city park).
When we left Brussels the temperatures were in the 60s with cloud cover. Here in Milan it was clear skies and in the 90s. We welcomed a chance to sit, relax and cool off. We found a restaurant where we had intended to make reservations for dinner but decided it was too far to walk back in the evening. So we had a coffee and then started walking back to our hotel. We took back roads, Via Monte di Pieta, Via dell’ Orso and Via Cusani to the Castello Sforzesco, a castle first built in 1368 and altered many times since. Again, much of the interior was under reconstruction so we were satisfied to walk through the interior of the castle grounds to the outer gardens. We hiked back to our hotel where we took off our shoes and rested our tired dogs.
We ate at Pace restaurant near the hotel, which was recommended by several guidebooks. We both started with prosciutto and melon. Next Rita had veal scaloppini while I had costoletta alla Milanese, a trademark dish of Milan, which is breaded veal cutlet fried in butter – similar to Vienna’s schnitzel but with the bone left intact. We shared fried potatoes, grilled vegetables and a bottle of Nobile de Montepulciano red wine. For dessert we had ice-cold watermelon that hit the spot and was about the only July 4th tradition we partook in.
Friday we had to set our alarm since we had a Lake Como tour lined up. We imagined it would be a large bus of tourists and were surprised that the tour consisted only of me, Rita, and a driver with his van. No wonder it cost so much! We arrived shortly in the town of Como and were met by our guide, Marta. First we walked a little in the town to the Como Duomo where Marta explained the details of the interior. Nice but not up to Milan’s Duomo.
Then we boarded one of the many small passenger ferries on the lake and criss-crossed Lake Como stopping at many beautiful small towns such as Cernobbio, Moltrasio, Brienna, Argegno, Lenno and Tremezzo (and others). Marta gave a running commentary of the history of the area and pointed out the summer villas of the rich and famous. We finally arrived in the medieval village of Bellagio that the hotel and casino in Las Vegas is named after. Here Marta told us goodbye after taking us to the restaurant Suisse where our lunch waited for us. Rita had risotto, another northern Italy specialty for her starter while I had a spicy orrichetti (little ears) pasta dish. Rita’s main course was pork tenderloin while I had local perch in saffron sauce.
The rest of the afternoon was spent walking around pretty Bellagio with steps up into the city that were lined with little shops. We took many photos of this pretty area but since our digital camera is in the shop, we don’t have photos on our website to share with you. Eventually we caught another boat back to Como and our driver was there waiting to take us back to the hotel. A great day.
With our big lunch we couldn’t face a full meal. We walked back to Pace restaurant again but only had starters. I had an antipasto plate while Rita had melon with prosciutto again plus a mixed salad. That was enough.
Saturday was our last full day. We had made reservations online for the English language tour of Leonardo di Vinci’s Last Supper painting at the renaissance church, Santa Maria della Grazie. Leonardo was not a fast painter. It took him ten years, off and on, to complete the Mona Lisa. Since the Last Supper was painted on a wall it would have normally been done in fresco style. But that type of painting has to be completed in a few hours while the fresco is damp. Leonardo couldn’t be rushed so he painted it in tempera, which is why the painting is in poor condition and has to be restored occasionally. Since the prior in the convent kept asking Leonardo when the painting would be finished, he used the prior as his model for Judas in the painting. I like his sense of humor!
We walked to Saint Ambrogio church next, one of the oldest and most important churches in Milan. Ambrogio (Ambrose), recognized as the patron saint of Milan, built the church in AD 379-386 on an early Christian burial ground. His remains are in the crypt, polished skull and bones in a bishop’s garment. Then we walked to San Lorenzo Maggiore, the oldest round church. This is an old part of Milan with some remaining ruins of the old Roman circus and temples.
We walked to Ca’ Grande, originally an innovative hospital built in 1456 but now a University. We barely made it into the beautiful courtyards before it closed at noon. From there we walked the short distance back to the Duomo and historic city center. We had a sandwich and cannoli at an outdoor café. Since the sky was darkening (thunderstorms were forecast) we walked back to the hotel via Piazza Mercanti to wait out the storms off our feet. We debated on going into a museum but decided the rest would do us better. And the rains did come down hard for several hours.
The rains stopped about 6:00 pm so we set out once more to find a restaurant. We walked to the Naviglio Grande district on the canals where restaurants were starting to set up their tables and chairs in the street. But it seemed more geared towards a younger set of cliental so we looked elsewhere. We found a good restaurant called il Bolognese off of Corso Genova and were seated next to talkative Americans from Florida. I had a bowl of minestrone soup, another northern Italy specialty. Rita had a mixed salad and veal paillard while I had my costoletta once more. It was very good with a good bottle of Chianti. After walking back to the hotel, Rita announced that her pedometer indicated we walked about 35 miles in three days.
Sunday we slept in and leisurely packed for our return. While waiting for our flight we had very good pizza at the airport snack bar. Our flight returned us to Brussels just fine and we were happy to be home and put our feet up for a rest.
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